This is my mantra for today. But first, how about a WIN? I just finished my very first (EVER!) pair of real jeans, which ARE a masterpiece. I am SO stinking proud of them!!! The Jalie stretch jean pattern is AHHHMAZING and while there are a few minor tweaks that I should make in my next pair, these are better than any pair of RTW jeans I’ve ever owned. Granted, as per usual, the proof is in the wearing and I have not yet worn them so they could be a baggy mess by the end of the day, but that has nothing to do with the fact that the construction on this pair of jeans is perfect. I don’t know where I got this fabric, but it was most likely Jo-Ann or Hancock. The recovery test was pretty good, given that these contain about 4% lyrca.
I followed along pretty closely with Angela Wolf’s Craftsy class, “Sewing Designer Jeans” and really enjoyed the process. Like I said, this was my first time tackling a real pair of jeans and I really needed all the help I could get. Angela’s class covers a lot of distressing techniques, which I did not do, as I want to be able to wear these to work – they needed to stay dressy. I made them extra long (I’m 5’10” with a 34″ inseam barefoot) so that I could wear them with heels!
I immediately wanted to go in and tackle another pair out of some deep purple stretch sateen. Pulled the fabric out of the stash, pre-washed and got to cutting. This time, I tried out Butterick 5682. I did a side-by-side comparison with the Jalie and some decent-fitting RTW jeans and it looked like it will be OK for a far-less-stretchy fabric than the 4% Lyrca denim I used for the Jalie jeans. Here is the first issue: the piece of fabric was actually two pieces. Apparently, when I purchased it, there wasn’t enough in a single cut so I took the two cuts on the bolt. I assumed that the two pieces were from the same bolt (you know, based on the fact that they came off the same bolt!), but as you can see in the photo below, they are not. The reality is worse than the picture…I had enough on those two pieces to barely eek out everything needed for the new pants by using a single layout, but now the back legs will be significantly darker than the front. This was not noticeable until after washing!
Although, the fact that the pattern confused a neckband and waistband leaves me a bit concerned…or else these are REALLY high waisted! Hello, Steve Urkel!:
The second issue: The muslin was a total wadder and these jeans are BAGGY, even when cut out 4 sizes smaller than my norm. Yeah, I’ll just cut a size up on the Jalie for lower-stretch denim. For the Jalie pattern, I really only need to scoop a bit out from the seat (and make the crotch curve more L-shaped) and take in about 1/4″ on the inseam and they should be perfect. This Butterick pattern would be great if you wanted baggy mom jeans…but I definitely don’t want/need 8″ of ease in my jeans!! So yeah, they can’t all be masterpieces, and I’m OK with that. How’s that for personal growth? A year ago, this would have prompted me to walk away from the sewing room for a week, regardless of the preceding win!